If you’re just starting your journey with Lolita fashion, you are actually pretty spoiled for choice. Not only there are more affordable options for you to buy from, they are also more easily accessible. For years now Lolitas were recommending newbies to start off with Bodyline, to minimise financial loss if they decided the style wasn’t for them without compromising that much on quality, but with the rise of Taobao brands, has Bodyline been knocked off that position? Let’s analyse which one is better for a newbie Lolita looking to buy her first couple of pieces.
I will look at both sides and give them a mark out of ten in
six categories: accessibility, price, range, quality, ease of coording and resale
value. Now, I know that some of these will be unfairly biased towards Taobao
since it’s a selling platform with a plethora of shops compared to one shop
that is Bodyline, but I will make fair adjustments to account for that when
awarding points.
Bodyline
Accessibility: 9/10
As the original ‘best for beginners’ brand, Bodyline is
incredibly easy to access. They have a website available in English, where you
can purchase items from directly, but you can also use their Rakuten site if
you’re already making an order from Japan via a shopping service (may be
slightly cheaper, depending on the exchange rate of JPY to your currency). On
top of this, since it’s been in the scene for so many years now, Bodyline items
are very easy to hunt down second hand, be it on Lacemarket, Facebook or even
eBay sometimes. Finally, if you make a trip to Japan, you’d be able to buy from
a Bodyline shop in three major cities: Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya. So you can’t
really get more accessible than Bodyline – wherever you go, you will eventually
stumble upon it.
We all know this logo so well by now. Photo from LolitaFashion.wikia.com |
Price: 7/10
For what it offers, Bodyline is reasonably priced. With the
growing saturation of the second hand market, where second hand brand goes down
in price, it’s hard to still consider Bodyline cheap given that you can get
something much better quality for the same price tag, but it is still reasonable
enough to not scare a newbie away. They have upped their prices without a
corresponding increase in quality, but at the same time Bodyline has plenty of
very good sales and special offers throughout the year, which will save you
even more. You could do far worse than spend your money on a new Bodyline
dress, so while it may not be the best value for money, it won’t hurt your
wallet and you shouldn’t be constantly scratching yourself because of the lace.
Range: 4/10
Bodyline was never the best when it came to the range of
products it offers and sadly, this seems to be getting worse. Although they
seemingly have every kind of items on offer – dresses, blouses, shoes, bags,
accessories etc. – there are very few options to choose from in terms of the
smaller bits and some options look a bit dated and not keeping up with the
current trends. Furthermore, while there are lots of options available to Sweet
Lolitas, the range of Gothic and Ouji is a lot smaller and Classic Lolita is
literally only a handful of pieces – and let’s not forget that some of the
prints and all of the shoes are either replicas or very ‘brand inspired’
designs, which may put some people off. With Bodyline also spreading themselves
thin by having a cosplay section as large as the Lolita one, their range
certainly suffers and the fact that their international website seems to not
restock items recently only makes their already limited range even smaller (though
I always recommend checking the Rakuten shop – they seem to focus a lot more on
that these days, so you may find things there that are out of stock on the
international website). In other words, there isn’t much to choose from and
what is there is mostly catering to Sweet Lolitas.
Not what I'd call a big or trendy range. And that's just one category. |
Quality: 6/10
Bodyline’s quality has always been a mixed bag, which
reviews will reflect. Their main pieces are better than they look on stock
photos and some are genuinely great for the price that they are. Same goes for
shoes, which are arguably Bodyline’s best product; I have also heard
compliments about their wigs and coats. Everything else is a mix of stuff
ranging from ‘alright’ to ‘you get better in Claire’s’. Blouses are the best
example of that: some are nice, most are a bit stiff and scratchy (which you
can remedy somewhat with fabric softener), but if you can get your hands on something
else, you’re probably better off going with that. What goes against Bodyline is
that their sizing is notoriously inconsistent. A size M for one dress will be
size S for another and size L for a third – only shoes are consistent in size
once you realise that Japanese shoe sizes are foot length measurements in
centimetres and use that when purchasing. All in all, for the price that
Bodyline will set you back by, it’s decent enough and you can wear it without
much pain or shame, but it’s nothing to write home about and with some of their
pieces (like petticoats or socks) you get what you would in a costume shop, so
not much point in buying those.
Ease of cording: 8/10
This may be a bit of a mystery category, so let me explain.
When you’re just starting out, having reference points on how other people have
coordinated a piece can help you figure out what you like, what you may still
need to buy or what works with that garment (e.g. what collar blouse with that
neckline etc.). And because it’s been on the market for so long and has been
sold many times, googling Bodyline dresses will give you a lot of those
reference and inspiration points. While many newbie coordinates will look the
same, having a bank of images and sometimes even past concrit to use will make
your own first coord better and give you space to focus on improving it rather
than spending more time on learning the basics of coording. This is why, while I
personally may be sick of seeing the same two Bodyline prints over and over
amongst newbies, I appreciate that their popularity makes it easier for future
new Lolitas to get their first coord right by looking at what others have done
with it. And let’s face it, those photos are needed since Bodyline’s stock
images don’t always give you the best idea of how things should be worn or how
will they look.
It's not a bad dress, it just seems like everyone and their mom owns it. To me it lost its charm once seen a million times. Photo from eBay. |
Resale value: 3/10
The good news is that you can still sell used Bodyline
pieces. But the bad news is that most of the times you won’t come anywhere near
to getting your money back and you may end up waiting a long time before you
end up selling something. That’s the downside of Bodyline’s popularity: if
everyone’s struggling to sell their Cinderella
Bunny print, then your chances of selling your own Cinderella Bunny are slim unless you sell it for next to nothing or
are lucky enough to find someone locally who wants to save on postage and other
costs. This is great news for those looking to buy, since they can get some
amazing bargains on people’s unwanted Bodyline pieces, but bad news for those
selling. Which is why it’s even more important to do your research and figure
out what you really like and want to wear before you decide on purchasing
anything, so that you avoid trying to shove off something that nobody wants
because everyone already seems to own it. And remember, all Bodyline sales are
final, even if there’s a mistake on their part, and no trying on if you’re in
the shop (although I remember them being a bit more lenient about that with
shoes, which might’ve changed since I went last), so you won’t be able to
return or exchange, you will have to sell elsewhere to get rid of an unwanted
item.
Total points: 37/60
Taobao
Accessibility: 8/10
In recent years buying Taobao pieces has become a lot easier,
although as it still confuses many a newbie, it’s not as easily accessible as
it should be. There are countless shopping services to use when purchasing
directly and for those too scared to attempt that – several reputable resellers.
Whilst in China there are some physical shops where you could buy items from
Taobao brands directly and even abroad there are some shops, physical and
online, which stock some Taobao brands for you to browse through (Saisai in
Camden, Wunderwelt Fleur, Madame Chocolat in Spain etc.). However, unlike
Bodyline, Taobao continues to grow, so I fully expect it to become more
accessible as we go on.
Taobao or the Land of Cheap and Plenty. |
Price: 7/10
The reason why I gave Taobao the same mark as Bodyline is because
of the range of prices you’ll see between various Taobao brands. There is a
small minority that are on the extremes, with the rest occupying the spaces in
between, although the price is often very much reflective of the item’s
quality. There are fewer sales taking place on Taobao compared to Bodyline, but
they are easier to remember (Chinese New Year and November 11th is
when you get the biggest offers), so you can plan for spending in advance –
plus resellers may have loyalty and points schemes, as well as additional
discount codes to entice you to spend with them. Finally, even when using a
reseller, it is perfectly reasonable to get a dress for under 100 USD, often
with matching pieces, so the prices are definitely reasonable for what you get.
Range: 9/10
Taobao is pretty much unbeatable when it comes to range –
partly because it’s easier for multiple shops to cover all the bases, but also
because of the big domestic demand for Lolita in China. I can’t think of a
single item that you’d be unable to find on Taobao or any reseller sites. The
huge amount of choice can be overwhelming and scary, particularly for newbies
still finding their style and preferences – it’s a lot harder to choose from a
hundred options than it is out of twenty. What’s more, because the Chinese
Lolitas drive up this incredible demand, the designs are not only up to date
with the current Lolita fashion trends – they are setting some of these trends
themselves! No need to worry that something will look dated, you can have the
next big trend if you only wish to. This also means that while there are some
replicas lurking about, you should easily find original designs that are to
your taste, size (with many offering custom sizing) and budget – even including
shoes and bags, which can sometimes be harder to find original designs for.
It's hard to compete with all these infinite brands, even if some are a bit dodgy or plain shite. Screenshot of one spreadsheet with Taobao brands, not sure how up-to-date it is, but you can find it here. |
Quality: 7/10
Again, I’m taking the average, since some brands will be
exquisite and some will be utter garbage – the majority in the middle are ok to
good, certainly good enough to meet Lolita fashion’s requirement for quality.
Generally, expect to get what you pay for, so aim either for the slightly more
expensive pieces or those with more reviews, because quality will vary from
brand to brand. Most brands, especially those stocked by resellers, are quite
nice. Resellers try to pick things they think will sell, which involves getting
nicer quality things and gives you some degree of reassurance. To keep costs
down, Taobao brands have a big preference for using polyester fabrics (Bodyline
uses it too, but usually it’s a poly-blend, and they have some cotton pieces
too), which means that some pieces feel really plasticky, so ensure you read
what the piece is made out of before buying, as well as reviews. Luckily, by
now some Taobao brands have been on the market for long enough to have built up
some reputation to maintain and start using nicer (more expensive) fabrics,
which also works in your favour when looking for quality.
Ease of cording: 6/10
Although there are some prints or designs from Taobao brands
that are popular and commonly found amongst Lolitas, there are so many designs
that it’s impossible to find a worn picture of every single one of them. If you
happen to fall in love with one of those rarely seen pieces, you will have to
figure out how to coord it on your own, which may take more time and more trial
and error. On the other hand, Taobao brands often add little model photoshoot
style photos to their listings or on their Chinese social media – if you can
dig that out, it gives you one resource of what looks good with that design. At
the same time, these photoshoots can aim to be more artistic than a
representation of how to wear something, which could end up misleading a fresh
face. So in comparison to Bodyline’s vast bank of resources and past coords,
you will struggle to find as many for Taobao brands unless they’re some of
those few designs that do appear frequently – and those will not necessarily be
the newest releases.
#taobaololita might help you find some inspiration, but you're not guaranteed to find the exact dress you just got. |
Resale value: 5/10
Again, the second hand market is absolutely full with people
trying to get rid of things. And if people struggle to sell brand, then Taobao
won’t do that much better. The advantage that Taobao has is that many designs,
once they sell out, are incredibly hard to track down, so if you’re lucky
enough to find someone who wants that design that you’re selling, then you
should be able to get a good price for it. This will require enormous patience
and some luck, but it’s not impossible. Furthermore, because Taobao designs
tend to be better quality in comparison to Bodyline, even in the saturated
market you won’t be unreasonable if you try to sell your pieces closer to what
you paid for them, as long as you kept them in good condition. Nicer quality is
especially helpful if you’re trying to offload builder pieces like blouses. But
generally, whilst reselling Taobao is slightly easier than reselling Bodyline,
you’ll still be operating at a loss and the market is still more favourable to
buyers who can get some great bargains on people’s used stuff instead of
purchasing new for themselves.
Total points: 42/60
Final comments
By my marking, Taobao came out on top of Bodyline by 6
points. While all of the above is my personal opinion, I feel like this
represents what we’re seeing at the moment relatively accurately. Recently I’ve
seen more beginner Lolitas ask whether such-and-such Taobao reseller is
reputable and more ‘my first coord’ posts using main pieces from Taobao than
Bodyline. Resellers have had a big part in this, in my opinion: a teenage
Lolita relying on parents for income will have an easier time convincing her
parents to buy something from websites in English, with feedback they can read
and understand, than when using a shopping service. While Bodyline also had
that advantage, their English website has been known to act up more as of late
and to not be restocked, and the reviews were few on Bodyline’s website itself, leading newbies to try their luck on Taobao instead.
Having said this, thanks to the favourable market for
buyers, I have seen equally as many new Lolitas start out and get their first
coord with items from Japanese brands gotten cheaply second hand, which is also
why in my scoring Taobao still has only just over 2/3 of all available points. Taobao
has made inexpensive, quality items for Lolita fashion more accessible and has
definitely shaken the old stereotypes that you have to own brand to be a
Lolita, but at the same time the sheer volume of clothes it made available to
people only saturated the second hand market further, in turn driving (some)
brand prices down too. Having said this, it’s also pretty common for newbies to
buy a brand main piece and then use their leftover budget on a little spending
spree on Taobao to get all the other bits of their coord: petticoat, blouse,
shoes, accessories, bags, what have you. That’s one order via a shopping
service or a reseller, which saves on shipping costs, and means that they wait
less time to put the whole coordinate together. And you know that you have
items that fit the Lolita aesthetic instead of trying to thrift something when
you don’t yet get all of the nuances of the fashion and what makes something
fit or not.
Ok, wow, this was long! Thank you if you’ve managed to stay
right up until the end, you’re my hero! I know that you must be tired now after
reading what’s essentially a university-length essay, but I’d love to know your
opinion. Do you think Taobao is better for beginner Lolitas? Or do you think
that Bodyline still deserves its title and recommendations as “best for
beginners starting our”? Are you seeing the same trends that I am or does your
corner of the internet/Lolita community see different trends?
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