Atelier Pierrot Nocturne Comparison

Vallée Lys’ Nocturne tulle cardigan was a big hit when it came out – but sometimes that extra length is not what I’m after. So since the Lace Fishtail Gilet didn’t fit me the way I wanted it to (sadness), my first slow emergence from my no-buy was with the Nocturne tulle overdress. But just because they share a name and a designer doesn’t mean that one is but a shortened version of the other!

I’ll ignore the obvious differences here (like that one is longer – duh!). Some of the differences in design seem to be based on reviews and feedback of the cardigan, while others are more likely choices influenced by aesthetics or maybe even material costs. Wherever they are pictured side by side here, the left is the cardigan (i.e. the original thing) and the right is the overdress (i.e. the more recent thing).

Different hems

This is what prompted my wanting to make a comparison post in the first place as I didn’t realise this when purchasing. The cardigan’s hem is a layer of mesh ruffle with a layer of ruffled lace topstitched over it (so it looks like two layers of lace). With how much fabric there is in the piece, the lace adds a certain amount of weight, helping the cardigan sit straighter and giving it a marginally heavier drape.

The overdress, on the other hand, only has one layer of ruffled mesh on the hem. However, and this is a big one, where the cardigan is plain mesh all the way down, the overdress has a row of smaller lace going around the skirt a few inches over the hem, effectively creating a tier. I’m uncertain what the strip of mesh above the lace is for, as the two are not connected, though it adda a bit of visual interest. This makes the overdress lighter at the skirt portion and also probably easier to layer over printed pieces where a heavier row of lace would’ve obscured anything under the overdress.

Sleeve trims and shapes

The sleeve on the cardigan is a very elegant shape, a little billowy from the shoulder seam to the wrist, then shirred at the wrist, with a flare of ruffled mesh and lace at the very cuff. On its own it makes for a very elegant detail that will add interest to blouseless coords, though it’s also small enough that so long as your sleeve comfortably fits under the shirred cuff, it’ll layer over that with ease.

Meanwhile, the overdress’ 3/4 sleeve is only trimmed with ruffled mesh at the cuff. Whilst there are two lines of overlocked stitching going across the sleeve itself, they don’t seem to be adding any volume as such, so I wonder if this was to maybe help with fabric efficiency or for plain ol’ visual interest? The sleeves are also significantly wider to accommodate all kinds of layering better, so that you’re not restricted to only wearing short sleeves under it. It’s certainly a more comfortable design if you prefer a looser fit.

Waist closure and buttons

Both Nocturne designs fasten with buttons going all the way down the front. One of the main gripes I had with the cardigan and that I heard others express too was that the buttons were plain white ones and covered with a layer of the same mesh fabric. Something that would’ve worked with a more opaque material resulted in the buttons being much lighter in colour and looking a little bit cheap. The buttonholes are also cut into a doubled up layer of the mesh, which keeps that part of the design light and flowy, but always has me worried about accidentally causing damage. These have both been fixed with the overdress: the main buttons are now a warm wine red colour at the base, as well as covered with the mesh, and the buttonhole side is secured with a sturdier placket in the same warm wine red. Sure, it’s less of a seamless effect when worn and that front placket will stand out, however, as it’s not isolated (see below), it shouldn’t give you that much of a Moitie Cross OP lookalike effect.

In addition, the size flexibility of the cardigan was down to a loose design that’s adjusted with ribbons threaded through two channels going across the torso. A very classic design, though one that will test one’s bow and ribbon-tying skills, as well as that may require a bit of faffing to ensure an even gathering around that area. (And may require keeping an eye on the ribbons untying themselves, which is something that happened to me before.) The overdress, however, utilises a tried and tested elastic channel, single as opposed to double, meaning that by default a similar volume of fabric is already cinched a bit and will expand on the wearer as needed. Since that channel is done in the same fabric as the buttonhole placket, it offers visual consistency across the designs.

Neckline design and lace colour

The added size flexibility with the overdress design has extended to the neckline. Where the cardigan’s neckline overlocked into place, offering no movement in that area, the overdress has another panel of elastic there. This immediately widens the range of sizes that can be accommodated and depending on your body frame, it may allow for more fun styling options if you are able to extend that neckline to be off the shoulder. It’s generous enough for that to be an option for me, though I am relatively average in that area at 36cm shoulders.

More noticeably, however, if harder to photograph, is that even though the lace design is the same on both the cardigan and the overdress, the one on the overdress is a different colour. Wine red is notoriously tricky to photograph accurately, though you can see that whilst the cardigan is the same shade and tone throughout, the lace on the overdress is cooler and almost purplish. The main mesh is the same across both designs, even though they seem to photograph slightly differently, making the cooler lace of the overdress stand out a little more. This might not be an issue for some and I certainly don’t foresee it being an issue for me when worn, but it may bother others.

Built-in gathering channels

One feature that the cardigan doesn’t have at all that’s introduced in the overdress are built-in gathering channels: two on the front and two at the back. Atelier Pierrot loves a bustle look, so it makes sense that they’d include that feature for their customers’ ease. Even more so as all the social media promotion of the overdress was focused on highlighting how versatile it is. Having built-in gathering channels makes achieving that look with no pins, no pain, and in no time. Moreover, as the shorter length of the overskirt (more traditional lolita length than the cardigan’s near midi) inherently works better with prints, being able to throw an overdress without having to resign yourself to hiding the print for the day is a big plus. 

Hopefully this comparison helps anyone who may have been considering getting a Nocturne and wasn’t sure which one to go for. And if you missed your chance by the time you’re seeing this post, at least you’ll know now whenever one appears on the second hand market.