Advanced Coordinating: #2 Depth

Thank you all so much for the positive response to the first installment of Advanced Coordinating! The video in particular was received so well, filling me with inspiration to keep this series going. And today’s topic is really quite advanced as I will aim to deconstruct and explain how to create depth in a coordinate.

When I compare coordinates that I like to those that I’m not so keen on, very often the level of depth is what tips the scales. Coordinates that are more interesting to look at will usually unveil layers of detail the more you look at them, and you will discover something new each time you revisit it. Think about outfits in the same way as you would about illustrations. An outline, however good, pales in comparison to the finished piece which has all the colours, shading, highlights, detailwork and textures. Lolita dresses, even the ones that appear simple at first glance, are hardly ever actually simple. Prints will have hidden details that will take time before you find them all, while non-printed pieces will have wonderful structural elements for your eyes to feast on. Even brands that create simple designs by definition, such as Innocent World or Victorian Maiden, incorporate details and elements that may not be bold, but are carefully placed and add dimension to the finished garment.

The tricky thing with depth is that although it’s fairly easy to explain it in an accessible way, achieving that in a coordinate is anything but. Particularly for newer lolitas, as creating depth requires both a skilled eye and having the right pieces, both of which take time to acquire. This is also why if you take a full-set-only kind of coordinate, it can still end up looking a little bit flat and uninteresting without something else there. For example, the promotional photoshoot photo of AP’s Noble Collection is far less interesting to look at than the Spoon magazine’s photoshoot, even though they both use the OP which provides the least room for variation. The extra accessories on the Spoon magazine photos make enough of a difference and add enough depth that the eye wanders for a bit longer.

Although the photo quality here isn't on the same level between the two images, you can still see that the right photo includes more accessories, creating more to look at and therefore - more depth.
Left photo taken from Angelic Pretty's website, right one from StyledIn Tokyo's Facebook page.

What I think helps create depth in a coord are textures and layers. Sometimes the textures will come from the layers, but they’re not necessary to achieve them. Moreover, textures and layers aren’t restricted to just clothing, you can add both through accessories, hair and makeup (which was the topic of the first Advanced Coordinating instalment), nails, bags - anything that would be on you when the coordinate is worn. Or anything that would be included on a flatlay, because this applies to flatlay outfits too. It’s also important to remember that this goes for any and every style of lolita. Assuming that texture and layers automatically mean that an outfit has to be OTT is an easy trap to fall into. But if you’ve spent any amount of time looking at oldschool coordinates, for example, you’ll know that while those outfits are as far from OTT as possible, they never lack depth thanks to the garments having more textures already by design and careful, clever placement of accessories.

Let’s start with textures, since those are ever a bit easier to translate onto any kind of styling, from casual to OTT. As already mentioned, non-printed pieces are great for that because they will have some physically textural details: tiers, pintucks, ruffles, gathers, cutouts, mixing fabrics of different weights etc. The eye picks up on those and you can imagine the tactile sensation of what they feel like. For more elaborate coordinates you would then continue playing with this and adding more: socks with a woven design; jewellery that either matches in intricacy (like filigree) or contrasts it (like a smooth surface of pearl beads); layers, especially lacy, from as small as wrist cuffs to as big as boleros or underskirts; styling hair to be textured e.g. in curls or by adding texture to it through accessories, like ribbon bows in bubble braids. On the other hand this means that casual coordinates will prioritise only one or two key textures, usually that of the main piece, then try to compliment that with another one or two textures max (a necklace and a bag, for example). As with everything in lolita, balance is key, which means distributing those textures across the coordinate so that no one area is overloaded with detail while the rest feels empty and flat. Whatever your vision is, play with textures, adding as many or as few as you require, until you are pleased with the result, finding something of interest to look at in every section (roughly divided into head, torso, skirt and legs).

I was looking through my recent coords to find some examples of both simple and more elaborate styling. Although adding depth through texture isn’t reserved just for OTT looks, in my particular case it often ends up that the more textured ones are the less casual ones. However, I think that these three with Meta’s Sailor Tiered skirt show a good balance and range, as well as are coords that I still like. The left one, whilst not necessarily boring, isn’t that exciting either, not for long. There are some textures there, like the crochet socks, but they are overpowered by the two big smooth(ish) blocks that are the skirt and the cutsew. It’s an outfit that was perfectly suitable for the occasion, but it’s not a memorable one because there aren’t that many things to notice and consider. Unlike the middle one. Although the picture isn’t the best for showcasing the textures, you can see the gathers decorating the full shirring of the blouse, as well as can make out the ruffle on the ankle socks, both of which almost mimic the tiers on the skirt. The only other textural details come from the smooth pieces (pleather shoes and bag, and the enamel necklace) and the lacy wrist cuffs, keeping the coordinate simple just like the left one. Yet there are enough textural details that retain one’s attention and allow the eyes to wander before they see truly everything there is to see there. Whilst also not OTT, the right coord is much more elaborate in comparison - and indeed, there are plenty more details to see before the eye grows bored. The blouse not only has tiers that blend into the skirt, it’s wholly textured, as well as further overlaid with a belt made out of multiple pearls. Semi-sheer tights are a different kind of sheer than the blouse itself, and at the top there is both a grosgrain ribbon bow and some curls in my hair that keep things interesting there. Jewellery laying over the blouse breaks up what would otherwise be a block of pink (even if subtly textured pink), while the pearl earrings match the belt, as well as mimic the pearly sheen on the shoes. It is still not an OTT coordinate, but it has considerably more depth than either of the other two. All thanks to the textures - as well as layers.

Texture is a great way to add depth to a coordinate whilst keeping it more casual.
June 2020 vs July 2018 vs July 2020.

Speaking of layers, this is also something that is easy to associate with elaborate looks only and forget that simple coordinates can also utilise layers to create visual interest. Think back to the classic examples of oldschool lolitas in the early KERA and FRUiTS street snaps. Although textures were used much more often than layers, we do have iconic examples using cardigans or blazers, which brands liked to release back then. And remember that layers don’t have to be restricted to garments or fabrics. You can layer jewellery, you can layer socks over tights, you can layer your hair over the clothes, you can layer patterns or colours within the coordinate as a whole… When you switch how you think about certain pieces of a coord to consider them layers of an outfit instead of elements, layers of interest instead of individual items, it opens up a world of possibilities, from things like bags (and where they are, i.e. crossbody or handbags) to blouses, an essential for JSKs and skirts. This is a big reason why builder pieces, particularly blouses and socks, are so exciting to me and why it frustrates me when lolitas actively neglect investing in them or when newcomers substitute a normie shop blouse and don’t understand why that doesn’t make their coordinate look like that of the seasoned lolitas. Not only are blouses and socks etc. essential layers to completing your coordinates - blouses and socks themselves are full of detail that can push your coords to that next level. Of course, there are instances that call for flatter layers like solid tights, however, that depends on your lolita style of choice, and it’s good to switch things up sometimes. And a pair of textured black tights to change up from the solid ones will not break your budget, but can diversify your looks, as well as create depth within them.

Those who have followed me for more than a minute will know that I love layers. Cardigans and boleros are a particular favourite, but even something as simple as wearing a cutsew over a JSK instead of under is an exciting enough layer for me. Since I’m aiming these posts at the intermediate lolitas, instead of showing you a ‘good’ vs ‘bad’ example, let me highlight how much of a difference layers can make without necessarily making the coordinate any worse in either case. The coordinate on the left has pretty much no physical layers, except for the tiers of lace already present on the skirt. You could argue that the focus here is on layering colours, but this is more just standard colour balance theory in a coord that’s not monochrome. It’s not a bad outfit, there are some textures, patterns and accessories to keep it interesting. But it’s not long before you’ve seen all the details and start scrolling further down. This is in very stark contrast to the coord I put together for the 10th Around Your Wardrobe in 30 Coordinates post. Because all major layers are the same colour, all of this outfit’s interest comes from the layers and textures. And there wouldn’t be any textures without the layers in the first place, which is what makes this a good example to use. Not only is there layering of clothes, but layering of accessories on top of the clothes. A feather behind the headdress and a mask in front of it make for a very opulent look, as does having one necklace on top of another. The belt is already one layer over the clothes, and then there is also the floral clip over that. Although the legs may seem bare in comparison, when you check the video you will see the seamed stockings, which you could argue to be a layer of a solid seam over sheer legwear. At a glance the outfit seems like a monochrome block. The more you look, the more layers you are able to peel and the more details you discover.

Whilst this here is very clearly a simpler vs more elaborate styling comparison, it's not that either coordinate is bad. Nonetheless, the depth created by layers in the right one make it more memorable and unique compared to the left one.
July 2020 vs AYWi30C #10.

I’ve already mentioned that creating depth in a coordinate is something that requires both coordinating skills and having the right pieces. What makes this a great learning curve for intermediate lolitas is that you can literally see growth with each item you add to your wardrobe. Once you have your base coordinate, by adding to your collection you will be able to add more to the individual looks. A lolita bolero could be both your layer and your textural addition - it changes the look and feel of the outfit with just one item of clothing. By expanding your wardrobe with different blouses, your coords won’t just be visually different, but you can layer the blouses over, under or even together for different looks. Whatever your style is, regardless of whether you prefer to keep things casual or explore the boundaries of OTT, identify the kinds of layers and textures that you would have the most use out of, then add them and use them creatively. I guess that this is exactly what I was getting at in the How Do You Approach Your Coords? post and where my admiration for Kyra’s style of improving each coordinate stems from. You can literally see in her One Year Challenge posts how each outfit grows in depth with the additions and changes that she makes.

I deliberately picked a set with a neutral base and took photos in as much of a same pose as I could to show depth being added through accessories in this case. How long did it take you to spot each addition in these photos (between left and right there are 7 in total, though admittedly one isn't the most visible)?

However, whilst Kyra is a great lolita who you definitely should look at for inspiration, I would like to suggest another one as someone to learn some tricks from: @polairewoods. If you know me, then it won’t be hard for you to guess that her vintage style and use of vintage pieces really appeal to me. But this is also why I wanted to suggest her: the only truly lolita pieces that she uses are almost all from Bodyline. Yet none of her looks read as your typical Bodyline coordinates because of her clever use of layering and textures. Her outfits are proof that you don’t need to spend top coin on brand items. More than that, she proves that you don’t need to use pieces that are strictly lolita at all if you have a good eye for layering, understanding of quality materials and patience to search through vintage and offbrand pieces in charity shops, potentially with a flair for crafting and/or upcycling. Of course, if you’re only just getting to grips with layering and textures within lolita fashion, sticking to pieces made with the intention of using them for lolita, or at the very least kawaii fashions, will be easier for you and a much gentler learning curve. But if you absolutely have to prioritise your budget and/or want to achieve a similar look to @polairewoods, then put in the extra work to practice and stay patient to get only the right pieces instead of jumping at the first thing you see that might do. Her #manywayswednesdays posts highlight how vastly different you can make a piece look simply by layering different pieces or by focusing on different texture. So whilst her account is very much classic lolita with some gothic, when she’s not sharing purely vintage outfits, I truly believe that everyone could learn something from looking at even one coord of hers that might catch their eye. And because so many lolitas own at least one Bodyline piece, seeing some coord examples that are really not your typical ones is bound to inspire anyone to try something different themselves.

However, as before, I encourage you to dig out your own favourite coordinates and look at your favourite lolitas’ accounts to review those looks from the point of view of depth. Do you see what I was trying to convey when you look at those outfits now? Have you noticed anything in particular that you could adopt, however small it may seem? Achieving depth in coordinates is definitely a process, I certainly didn’t get there straight away myself. But even just from looking at my coordinates from 2020, I can see how far I’ve come because I am seeing so many more outfits that I would call favourites, whereas in previous years those were a lot easier to pick. You may not notice at first that you’ve grasped how to add depth to your coordinates, it may not be one eureka moment, but when you do get it, you will realise that it was worth all the time and effort.