That’s right, we aren’t talking about ouji here – this is straight up about looking at mainstream menswear, whether contemporary, vintage or historical, and taking ideas from that. Because as a firm believer that inspiration for fashion can be anywhere, I would be remiss to share with you this interesting little rabbit hole that I somehow landed in through a couple of creators suggested to me by the various social media algorithms. These won’t take your J-fashion coords from basic to OTT – but especially if you’re looking for ideas on wearing your stuff more regularly and need to tone down without it looking stripped down, I have found these tips to hold true.
1. Make Accessories Count
Whilst we over here understand that it’s only gender binaries enforced by patriarchal structures that limit men in what kinds of accessories they can wear (spoiler: anyone can wear any accessory they like), when you look at men who are stylish in the mainstream sense, few venture beyond what’s traditionally accepted within their assigned gender presentation. And yet the difference that the inclusion or exclusion of a watch, a pair of glasses or even a small chain can make is exceptionally clear in the context of menswear. In lolita coords, one ring is likely to disappear in the whole look. But remember that your coord isn’t just the outfit picture, it’s you wearing it. And that one ring may bring the touch of accent colour or bring out your chosen theme in exactly the right way. For me it’s the wrist wear in particular that I’ll be taking forward. A masculine outfit looks so much different with a watch and without it – same with a classic lolita coord with or without even a singular bracelet.
2. Textures = Visual Interest
This isn’t restricted to menswear, plenty of fashion accounts will talk about the value of textures in an outfit.
Even I’ve done that under the label of ‘depth’. It bears repeating because it works and menswear is great at highlighting just how big of a impact it can have. When all that one is wearing are trousers and a shirt, layering that with a smooth blazer that matches the trousers or a chunky knit jumper that adds something new takes centre stage within the outfit. Someone correct me if I’m wrong here, but I think this kind of sensory approach to styling is what makes the difference between a great and an ok fairy-kei outfit – but since our eyes often focus on the pastels first, it’s not immediately obvious that it’s the layers of various textures that make the overall effect so pleasing. And it’s why I’m convinced my TQiD tea party coord worked as well as it did: between laces, smooth fabrics, pile fabrics, leather, openwork of the hoop and fishnets, and metalwork, this was a sensory explosion. But as I said, this idea works on simpler coords too, where the contrast or unity of textures contribute to how much impact the overall outfit has.
3. Change Formality with Lengths
It isn’t necessarily set in stone, particularly nowadays when it is possible to be dressed formally with short sleeves or shorter hem lengths, but the perceived impact still remains. The more of the body that is covered, the more formal the wearer appears. This is why Elegant Gothic Aristocrat looks like another level above lolita. The principle doesn’t change here. Trying out short sleeves vs long sleeves, even if the colour, fabric, neckline, everything else stays the same, may be the change that will make your coord appear like a whole new outfit. The same goes for bottom layers – that same skirt extended with an underskirt (or my personal favourite, a different skirt or dress worn as an underskirt) can change its whole vibe just because of that one change. Is this why you’re more likely to see lolitas in long sleeves and with their legs fully covered at bigger tea parties versus the relaxed meetups to eat some cakes, even if the weather demands lighter layers? Quite likely although personal preferences also play a big role here.
I will always encourage anyone interested in fashion to seek inspiration from a multitude of styles. There is only so much that you can learn from applying the “Rules” of lolita before you hit a wall on what to do next. So whilst mainstream menswear isn’t always the most exciting thing, especially for those of us who really love the hyperfeminine over-the-top looks, don’t dismiss that as completely boring and with nothing to offer. It may even be easier to analyse why a simpler masculine outfit with fewer elements works as well as it does than a maximalist feminine one with everything and the kitchen sink thrown at it. And there are some very fashionable men out there who have a knack for explaining why things work whilst supporting that with visual aids.
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