My Wardrobe Turnover

Inspired by Miss Filigree’s take on this Lolita 52 Challenge prompt, I decided to have a go myself. For someone who hasn’t sold that many pieces and tends to buy to keep, talking about wardrobe goals and inspirations is a good way of revisiting how your wardrobe may have evloved without physically changing out the pieces within it. Which is going to be tricky given that I was always quite adamant about not buying things that were too similar to each other, but I think I can still pick out some common themes and threads.

Wardrobe goal no 1: Rockabilly

As I may have already mentioned somewhere, I didn’t get into lolita fashion to wear it in a lolita way. I saw this cute JSK from Bodyline that was a more cutesy rockabilly dress (A-line, red and white with polkadots, halterneck) that was affordable and got that. Even though my second dress, bought shortly after, didn’t fit the conventional rockabilly or 1950’s style, I still bought it with the intention of using it when I go out to burlesque shows etc. If it was cutesy and vaguely matched the 1950’s aesthetic, I was probably after it. This phase lasted for a surprisingly long time, even though gradually I began (finally!) learning little bits about lolita fashion as a thing in its own right. Besides, I already experienced the dissonance between Bodyline’s products and stock photos, so even though I continued to check their website for stuff, I never dared order anything online without being able to see and feel it for myself, which only prolonged that first phase.

Left to right: Bodyline's L262, L249 and L332.
While I still own the first two, the last one evaded me mostly because the size was too small. If it wasn't, I probably
would've caved in and bought it.

Wardrobe goal no 2: Cheesecake Sweet

The more I learnt about lolita fashion and the more I grew out of that rockabilly phase, the more I was drawn to the bold prints full of whimsy, sweets and adorable animals. Upon returning to Japan I took advantage of cheaper shipping and braved ordering some more Bodyline stuff (Cookie Party JSK and some shoes). Later, on a trip to Tokyo, I added another Bodyline purchase (Love Jewelry skirt) and on a yet another trip to Tokyo I even made my very first brand purchase: AP’s Merry Making Party OP in yellow. Sweet food prints just really caught my eye and at that point only 2 out of my 5 pieces were not food themed, so that was definitely the dominant theme in my collection. I still sort of looked at lolita through the lens of 1950’s fashion, especially in terms of what themes might work with something more vintage. I didn’t want to look too out of place at burlesque shows and cheesecake pinup was my primary inspiration, so I naturally gravitated towards prints that were bright, colourful and full of sugary goods.

Left to right: Bodyline L515, Angelic Pretty Merry Making Party OP and Bodyline L397.
The first one I owned in black (even though I ordered it in sax - no idea what happened). I wanted Military Sweets too,
but the size was again too small. And while I really liked Merry Making Party, I did struggle with coording it a lot.
That cut was so comfortable and flattering though, I'd love another OP in this cut, just haven't found one I'd like.

Wardrobe goal no 3: Sweet in Darker Colours

This came to a bit of a stop when AP released Crystal Dream Carnival, which instantly became a dream dress – right after I spent all my savings, of course. However, this opened the door to me appreciating sweet prints in jewel tones or just generally in darker shades than pastel or true tone. I remember looking at the release announcement e-mails AP used to send and admiring releases like Cameo Window, Victorian Letter and Elisabeth Unicorn. Those were all on my wishlist for such a long time and some I still wouldn’t mind owning, even if they’re not exactly my priority anymore. I’m still more drawn to darker colours, even with sweet prints, than their pastel counterparts, despite my relationship with sax blue saying otherwise.

Left to right: Angelic Pretty Cameo Window skirt, Victorian Letter Long JSK and Elisabeth Unicorn High Waist JSK.
Those were the exact cuts and colourways I wanted (though I also liked Cameo Window in ivory). Yeah, I considered
cuts in as far as whether I liked their overall design, not whether they'd flatter me.

Wardrobe goal no 4: Venturing into Classic

Around the same time as the CDC release I also started noticing BtSSB and AatP a lot more, pining after some of their releases that were either quite firmly Classic or treading the line between Classic and other styles. I would still give my left arm for AatP x Sentimental Circus collab, Sleepless Masquerade in red, except I only like the non-shirred cut. My (so far) only wine pieces are probably the best epitome of this phase – it was genuinely just dipping my toes into something new because I liked those particular pieces, but which has grown into a fully-fledged wardrobe goal.

Left to right: AatP x Sentimental Circus Sleepless Masquerade in the Twilight JSK I, BtSSB Soiree of the Beginning
of My Memories JSK I and AatP Scheherazade ~ One Thousand and One Nights ~ JSK I.
To be honest, if I hadn't seen Sleepless Masquerade in person, I probably wouldn't be as into it as I am. Same with
that Baby dress. But Scheherazade had me sold from the moment it was released!

Wardrobe goal no 5: Toning Down a Little

Once I gathered most of my dream pieces and ditched wearing trousers altogether, I started thinking about maybe building up to becoming a daily lolita. This meant getting some more toned down pieces, or at least ones that could be worn whilst attracting less attention. This mainly involved skirts, solids and patterns, although I was looking at florals. Having said this, as this was more of a minor phase and often these pieces ended up being worn more outside of lolita, I never paid it that much attention. These were more like fillers than prized possessions, even though some of them you can try to pry out of my cold dead hands now, I love them so much.

Left to right: Innocent World Emblem Flare JSK, Angelic Pretty Classical Whip Dot JSK and Innocent World White
W Blade Tuck skirt.
If it's something that I could wear to work without feeling massively overdressed, chances were I wanted it. Though with
time this grew from having to also be quite affordable to 'I'm happy to spend more if I like it to support the brand'.

Wardrobe goal no 6: Florals

This happened simultaneously with goal no 5 – at one point Istarted wanting florals because they were pretty, as well as could pass for normal or vintage clothes. This was also another facet of my turning more Classic, where florals feature prominently. And actually, it wasn’t until I consciously started wanting to get more florals that I realised how many of the pieces I already owned or had on my wishlist featured florals as a secondary or tertiary theme. It took a little bit longer for me to get florals than I would’ve liked because for a long time I was still very particular about avoiding pink. Give it more time and I’ll get over that completely.

Left to right: Innocent World Cool Rose JSK, Mary Magdelene Arabesque JSK and BtSSB Antoinette Bouquet Gathered
Bodice JSK.
From the one that got away, to the one I probably want most and ending on the one I feel I'm most likely to get (of these
three, that is). I do wonder how much longer it'll be before I tick that red-based floral box off my wishlist...

Wardrobe goal no 7: Embracing the Classic

This is where I am at now and sort of what I feel is ahead. Fewer and fewer pieces on my wishlist are typical Sweet prints, while more and more are either distinctly Classic or more Classic than Sweet (like AP’s Queen Chocolate). I’m not sure whether I’m growing out of Sweet entirely or whether just prioritising something else. As far as prints go, I think it’s more of a case of there being more Classic prints that I liked. However, I am starting to consider cuts a lot more and this is where any thoughts of cutting out Sweet enter as I fully realise that A-line is way more flattering on me than cupcake. Either way, I’m finding myself drawn more towards Classic pieces and wanting more of those, both from the simpler and more OTT ends of the spectrum. So I guess time will tell where this ends.

Left to right: Metamorphose Gold Braid Tuck Pinafore JSK, BtSSB Bless from Michael JSK and Mary Magdalene
Deborah Doll JSK.
These are just the most Classic pieces from my wishlist that aren't florals. But I have considered both prints (Antoinette
Decoration is so nice!) and non-prints (that Hinana Queena OP that everyone seems to have right now).

What I would like to add as a final word is that these aren’t exactly clear-cut separate phases. Apart from the first one, I feel like many still apply to my wardrobe and my style: I still love retro touches and cute prints, still getting pieces that can be toned down and worn more often, still after both more jewel tones and florals. Yes, I might at some point end up parting ways with my Sweet side, but even if – it’s certainly not yet. At the same time, I feel like I’m now at the stage where I actively try new things and styles. My wardrobe is incorporating more green and brown (still dark colours, but different kind), I’ve already tried Gothic earlier this year, my first ouji coord is also brewing… I even found myself unironically contemplating getting a pink dress (ideally a glittery one, but Lolibrary doesn’t have glitter or sparkles as a tag to narrow that search down). I try to keep an open mind and not stick myself into any boxes for the sake of it. If I like it and can wear it, then I’m happy to give it a go. And truth is, much of what I like already fits into at least one of the themes listed above, so maybe the changes aren’t as big as they seem.

Phew, this was actually quite intense, more than I anticipated. I thought it was going to be easy-peasy identifying my wardrobe phases and goals through time, but very quickly they started to blend into one. Have you always had a clear idea of the direction you wanted your wardrobe to head? Did your tastes change over time or are you still quite true to what originally sparked your interest in lolita?